Woking Borough Council
Civic OfficesGloucester SquareWokingSurreyGU21 6YL
Telephone: 01483 755855
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What should I do in my existing house/flat?If you are not planning any building work please consider the following:
you are twice as likely to die in a fire at home if you have not got a smoke alarm
a smoke alarm is the easiest way to alert you to the danger of fire, giving you precious time to escape. It is cheap, easy to get hold of and easy to fit. There is no excuse for not having one and
many people who have smoke alarms are in danger too. The alarm could be in the wrong place, there may not be enough smoke alarms for the size of their home, they may not have checked their alarm recently or the batteries could be missing.
The detection method determines how well the alarm spots different kinds of fires. There are two detection methods - or you can combine both.
Ionisation alarms are sensitive to free-burning fires with flames, e.g. pan fires. They detect these fires before the smoke becomes thick. These are the cheapest and the most widely available smoke alarms. You can find them in supermarkets as well as DIY and electrical shops.
Optical alarms are more effective at detecting slow-burning fires, like overheated electrical wiring. They are less likely to go off accidentally or when you are cooking. Optical alarms are more expensive. They are not quite as widely available, but are easy to get hold of in DIY and electrical shops.
Combined detectors are effective at detecting slow-burning as well as flaming fires, which are both common types of fire. The cheapest combined alarms actually cost less than optical-only alarms. And they are about as easy to find as optical-only alarms.
A lot of people forget to check their smoke alarms, so the best choice of power supply is one that lasts longest.
Standard battery: The cheapest and most widely available alarms are powered by ordinary batteries. The drawback is that the battery needs replacing every year.
Ten year battery: Alarms with ten year batteries cost a little more (they are usually combined ionisation and optical alarms). With a ten year battery you do not have to remember to change the battery every year.
Mains: Mains-powered alarms eliminate the problem of checking the battery. But to be really safe you need a battery back-up (which costs extra). They need to be installed by a qualified electrician. These are the type required by Building Regulations when you carry out building work.
Hush/silencer button: Some people find their alarms are frequently set off when they are cooking or when the toast burns. This is partly a problem of positioning (the alarm shouldn't be in the kitchen or right outside it). But it can be made less annoying by a button that quietens the alarm temporarily. The alarm lets you know it's been silenced by "chirping" or by displaying a red light and a real fire producing lots of smoke will set it off anyway.
Emergency light: When the alarm sounds, the light comes on. The light can help you see your way out, and it's good for alerting people whose hearing is not perfect.
Strobe light and vibrating pad: For people who are hard of hearing or deaf, there are alarms which come with a pad. When the alarm goes off, the pad vibrates, and a strobe light flashes, alerting you or waking you up instantly.
If you're not sure which one to buy then get an alarm that combines optical and ionisation detection and that has a ten year battery or mains supply. Mains operated are required by Building Regulations when you carry out building work.
Smoke alarms are easy to fit. The simplest types just need a screwdriver, and that is about it.
Please note that these guidance notes are for advice only and may not cover all situations. It is your responsibility to ensure that they are appropriate for use in your particular circumstance.